Lyon is known for the author of The Little Prince Antoine Saint-Exupéry. It’s also the birthplace of Emperor Claudius, the legendary chef Paul Bocuse, and of bouchons lyonnais (bistros serving classic Lyon dishes). Exploring Lyon in 5 days definitely requires you to visit some famous landmarks and to dine at some quintessential Lyon food establishments. Lyon is a clash of the ancient with the baroque. You can find a basilica on the hill (Notre Dame de Fourvière) right next to the ancient Gallo-Roman Theatre. A very walkable city, Lyon is also built with accessibility in mind. There are escalators and funiculars to help visitors get to the very top of the hills, so everyone gets to enjoy the amazing views. Your 5 day itinerary in Lyon should definitely include some must-sees and must-eats.
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Essentials
Language: French.
Currency: EURO (€)
Voltage: 230 V. See my post on Essential Items to Pack in your Carry-on for tips on what plug adapters to buy.
Major Train Stations: The main train stations are Lyon Part Dieu and Lyon Perrache. They’re both high-speed rail, but which one you arrive at will depend on your point of departure. For example, Lyon Perrache is your only choice if you’re coming from Geneva. See Rail Europe for more information.
Major Airport: Lyon Saint-Exupéry is the main international airport in Lyon, but check out Lyon Aeroports for details.
Getting There
Buy tours with Viator to explore Lyon with local guides. A good, curated tour saves you the hassle of commuting and planning. Check out my list of curated Viator tours to Lyon, France.
You can definitely fly into Saint-Exupéry airport if that works for your itinerary, but the high-speed trains of TGV or SNCF or comfortable and easy ways to get around France. Snag a first class seat if you book early so you get plenty of leg room and luggage space. Lyon Part Dieu and Lyon Perrache are the two major train stations, so see which one is closer to where you’re staying and disembark from there if you can. It’ll save time and cost of hailing a taxi or for the shuttle bus.
Where to Stay
I always recommend staying near the centre of the city if you’re exploring Lyon in 5 days.
Hôtel de l’Abbaye (Ainay)
Website: https://hotelabbayelyon.com/en/
Stay in a former presbytery (the main residence where the priest lived) with the Saint-Martin d’Ainay basilica literally next door. This is a charming, old-world, boutique hotel that’s been completely redesigned with a modern interior. The bells at the Abbey start ringing at 9 AM as a free alarm. And it’ll ring every quarter after that. This place might not be your best choice if you plan to sleep in late every day. Other than the bells, the hotel room itself is quite spacious (a luxury in large cities), and tastefully decorated with modern decor. L’Occitane products are provided as amenities (as of October 2024) and they are a delight to use. There is a breakfast option you can purchase with your reservation and I think it’s worth it. The breakfast has a nice selection of yogurt, fruits, waffles, pastries, and good coffee.
What to See and Do
Balance your 5 day Lyon itinerary by seeing some historical landmarks and discovering some hidden gems along the way.
Hike up to the Notre-Dame de Fourvière Basilica
Perched high atop the Fourvière hill is an impressive and imposing basilica dedicated to the Virgin Marys from around the world. Architects Pierre Bossan and Louis Sainte-Marie Perrin were tasked to construct this monumental masterpiece back in 1870. It took them 25 years to complete, but it is the crown jewel of churches in Lyon. It’s built in a byzantine, gothic, and roman architectural style with 4 enormous towers. Each tower represents one of the following: Prudence, Temperance, Strength, and Justice.
This basilica is absolutely worth the hike to see. You get a stunning view of Lugdunum (the ancient name for Lyon) from the top, but take the escalators or funicular from the town square if hiking isn’t an option. The church is dedicated to being accessible to all, so there is a public transport access that goes straight to the front doors of the basilica.
Definitely take your time here to admire the mosaics on the walls (the one of Joan of Arc is incredible to witness) and to see all the different Virgin Marys from around the world. The ceilings look like it’s been painted to replicate the starry night sky, so make sure to look up to marvel at the view.
Explore the Lugdunum Gallo-Roman Theatre and Odeon (Fourvière)
Lyon was founded in 43 BC by the Romans, and it’s still astounding that you can walk past the French baroque buildings and walk right into an ancient roman theatre. It’s quite the clash of eras. The Grand Theatre is the larger of the amphitheatres and, in its glory days, can seat up to 10,000 spectators. The theatre is still in use today where shows are held on special occasions. There are large, white columns on stage and each column commemorates an emperor who has their ashes buried at the base. The smaller theatre, called the Odeon, right next to the Grand Theatre seats a smaller number of spectators. This is also where the baths were where citizens would take baths and enjoy the sauna after a show. Quite the amenities.
The Lugdunum museum is built into the side of the hill and costs about €7 to enter (as of October 2024). It houses an extraordinary collection of statues, epitaphs, and other relics showing military, civil, and religious life. It’s worth a quick tour, especially if it’s hot outside, so you can cool down after climbing the steps in the theatres. The museum was built in the 1970s by Bernard Zehrfuss using reinforced concrete. It almost feels more like a nuclear bomb shelter instead of a museum. Definitely check out the museum though, if you’re a fan of history and I, Claudius because you get to see the Lyon Tablet (unearthed in 1528) which is a bronze tablet etched with the famous speech Emperor Claudius gave to the Gallic people in 48 BC.
Climb the Painted Staircases (Escaliers montée des Carmélites)
The mayor of the 1st arrondissement promotes beautiful street art by partnering with the street-art association Superposition. The association sends artists to paint staircases around town. The design painted on the staircases represents the neighbourhood the staircase is in. The colourful Escaliers montée des Carmélites in the 1st arrondissement is painted with motifs of vegetation in bright colours of orange and blue. It’s a fun sight to see and worth a few snapshots.
Go Mural Hunting (La Fresque des Lyonnais)
The murals of famous Lyonnais, such as la Fresque des Lyonnais, are created by CitéCréation. They’re responsible for painting the optical illusion (called trompe l’oeil) paintings on the buildings around Lyon and they’re a cool sight to see. The Fresque des Lyonnais is probably the most famous because it depicts famous Lyonnais personnel such as Paul Bocuse, Antoine Saint-Exupéry, the Lumière Brothers, and many more. This mural is located around Quai de Saint-Vincent and close to the other sights like Escaliers montée des Carmélites. There are lots of murals everywhere that are worth the hunt for. Walk everywhere as much as you can and you’ll spot some unmissable murals.
Go souvenir shopping at Emilie Ettori Illustrations
Website: https://www.emilieettori-illustration.com/fr-english
I’m always on the lookout for postcards and magnets when I travel. Lately, I’ve been more conscious about seeking out local artists to buy souvenirs from. Emilie Ettori is located in the heart of Lyon and her illustrations are detailed and charming. I got some great postcards from her depicting major sights in Lyon and Paris and other pieces of artwork that’s easy to frame. She sells art for framing, but also posters, and even wallpaper if you want to redo your home with illustrations of France. It’s an absolutely adorable store and I highly recommend it if you’re a fan of great artwork and of supporting local businesses.
Where to Eat
Delicious joints abound in Lyon! Many people advise to avoid eating in the tourist areas because that’s usually where bad food is served to unsuspecting visitors at exorbitant prices. Although this is generally true, the French are picky enough about their food that even restaurants in tourist areas have to pay attention to the quality of their dishes. A trick I like to use to see if a restaurant in a tourist area is worth trying is to judge by how much of the local language I hear.
In this case, if I hear a lot of French at a so-called tourist restaurant, then it’s probably a decent choice. I find the majority of the French simply won’t tolerate bad food, so regardless of which district you’re in, I think it’s good to keep an open mind about what restaurants to try. It’s easy to think in either/or terms of where you should or shouldn’t eat, but hidden gems can be found anywhere, even in plain sight. So keep an open mind and you might discover some wonderful hidden delights.
PAUL Bakery in Gare Part-Dieu Train Station
Website: https://www.paul.fr/
Style: Bakery chain.
Price range (as of October 2024): Starting at about €3 for pastries and it goes up from there.
If you’re a fan of fluffy, buttery croissants, then make sure to look for PAUL bakery when you’re at the train station. I found this one at the Gare Part Dieu in Lyon, but it’s a chain and completely worth the line up if you want a quick bite. They also serve many other pastries and sandwiches if you want something more substantial.
Restaurant Paul Bocuse (L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges)
Website: https://bocuse.fr/fr/
Style: Michelin star super-fine dining.
Price range (as of October 2024): Prix fixe menus range from €225 to over €600. Wine pairings are either optional or might be included in the set menu depending on the menu you choose. À la carte menu options are available starting at about €100 per plate.
This is the splurgest of all splurges for a stupendous meal. It’s the legendary Chef Paul Bocuse’s flagship restaurant with 2 Michelin stars serving French food at its most decadent. The building itself is quite the sight. It has a colourful façade of red and orange with engravings of roosters and famous French dishes. There are à la carte options available, but I find that ordering a tasting menu is the best choice if you’d like to taste a bit of everything this iconic restaurant has to offer. The wine choices are impeccable. Depending on the menu, you might be served a wonderful red from 1992 or a port from 1969. Yes, 1969. It is incredible that you get to taste something that old and refined here.
The symphony of dishes is perfectly composed. The standout dishes include an entire chicken cooked in bladder and stuffed with truffles and poached in stock. It is sublime. And quite the show to watch to see the servers carving it up for plating right at your table. The cheese trolley is like something out of Harry Potter: it’s got endless drawers of cheese and you get to pick all the ones you want to try. The dessert cart is also sumptuous and overwhelming. Yes, you’ll splurge mightily here, but if you’re looking for a true once-in-a-lifetime fine French dining experience, then this could be it.
Le Café des Fédérations
Website: https://restaurant-cafedesfederations-lyon.fr/
Style: Casual family-style dining.
Price range (as of October): €34 for an evening set menu. Lunch menu has prix fixe and à la carte options.
One of the ways to find good restaurant recommendations is to browse through your favourite cookbooks. Chef Daniel Boulud has a cookbook simply titled Daniel and in it he mentions that the bouchon Le Café des Fédérations is his favourite bouchon. He says if he could open up a bouchon one day he’d run it like Le Café des Fédérations. High praise!
So we managed to book a spot and it’s one of the fullest, most satisfying meals we’ve had in France. It’s a casual restaurant serving traditional dishes from Lyon (they even have the certificate to prove it!). Plates are served family-style and the flavours are satisfying, rich, and very, very filling. You will leave stuffed and happy. Some highlights for me included the oeuf meurette (poached egg in red wine sauce), gâteau de foie de volaille (chicken liver cake), civet de joue de porc (pork cheek), and quenelle (pike dumplings with lobster sauce). Quenelle is a very traditional lyonnais dish and I highly recommend you try it if you’re a fan of seafood. Your 5 day itinerary to Lyon must include this restaurant.
Les Infidèles
Website: https://lesinfideles-restaurant.com/
Style: Casual atmosphere with fine dishes.
Price range: About €30 for a set menu and about €20 to €30 for à la carte options.
Les Infidèles is located on la rue Mercière where printers, publishers, and merchants made their wealth in the 20th century. Along with that wealth came brothels and other venues providing frivolous activities. At its height, the street had more than 50 brothers operating regularly, hence the restaurant took on the name Les Infidèles to honour the scandalous past of the neighbourhood.
Les Infidèles is right in the heart of downtown touristy Lyon, but remember what I said earlier about keeping an open mind about where to eat? Well, this is where it pays off. The food is a fusion blend of French and world flavours; innovative and tasty. It was a nice blend of casual dining with finely prepared food. We ordered an innovative take on a french toast dish, duck breast with macaroni and cheese served on the side, and an orange dessert that was an homage to citrus. This a delicious and affordable joint and I highly recommend it on your Lyon 5 day itinerary where you do a mix of high and low dining.
Shouka Café
Website: https://shouka-chamonix.fr/
We’re a couple who like to frequent the same coffee shop everyday in the morning. It helps us build a routine quickly and make the new city feel like home. Shouka Cafe serves great coffee, perfectly pulled. It’s located down a little alleyway and was only about a 10 minute walk from where we were staying at the Hôtel de l’Abbaye.
Le Val d’Isère
Address: 23 Rue des Farges, 69005 Lyon, France
This incredibly tiny sandwich shop on the side of the hill on the rue des Farges is incredible! I had a salmon salad baguette sandwich with fresh egg mayonnaise. It was incredibly fresh and delicious that I almost cried because it’s impossible to find a sandwich of this calibre back in my hometown of Toronto. A sweet gentleman prepared our sandwiches with such care. Definitely grab a light lunch here after you’ve strolled through the Gallo-Roman Theatre.
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